Using an HHO generator is one of the many methods used to increase the efficiency of the engine’s combustion gasoline. One side effect of increased combustion efficiency is that additional oxygen appears in the exhaust. Modern vehicles equipped with oxygen sensors will detect this additional oxygen, informing the vehicle’s computer. The computer then incorrectly thinks that the air/fuel mix is too lean, and then richens the mix incorrectly. Thus resulting in wasted gasoline and negates any performance benefits.

The Solution: Compensate with EFIE

A simple solution exists: compensate for the extra oxygen in the exhaust to maximize fuel efficiency gains. Whether you are using an HHO generator or some other method to increase the combustion efficiency, a compensation method is required to unlock maximum fuel efficiency.  The Electronic Fuel Injector Enhancer (EFIE), when switched on, will alter the signal sent from the oxygen sensor to the vehicle’s computer. Instead of a lean condition being reported, a normal condition or rich condition is sent. This reduces the amount of fuel sent to the engine’s combustion chamber. These devices have been around for several years and many people have realized dramatic gains in fuel economy by using them in conjunction with an HHO generator. Since this is a mature product, innovation has revised and refined the design.

Innovation: Digital EFIE devices

Quad Digital EFIE - Works with Up to Four O2 Sensors

Recently released, the Digital Narrow Band EFIE ushers in a new era in oxygen sensor enhancement. With this device, you can make your vehicle much leaner than with previous EFIE designs. It is also extremely stable despite changes in temperature. From -40C to 125C the variation is negligible (1/2 of 1% max). Older style EFIEs have trouble working with old, tired oxygen sensors, the new digital model works with any sensor that is still able to produce voltage.
The new Digital EFIE sensor operates differently from any current EFIE on the market. Click How Digital EFIEs Compare to read a comparison between the old and new designs. The comparison should help you make an informed decision on what to install.

Quad Digital EFIE Features

Quad Digital EFIE Wiring Diagram

Where to Purchase

The all new Digital Electronic Fuel Injector Enhancers (EFIEs) are available for purchase at the following link: EFIE Devices. You will find premade EFIE devices and help to find the right model for your vehicle.

Previous EFIE Designs

Non-Digital EFIE Devices are flawed for the following reasons:

• There is a limit to the amount of Voltage that can be added to the O2 Sensor output before the vehicle’s computer starts throwing error codes.
• A large voltage modification is sometimes needed to get the correct amount of leanness needed. This is a problem because of the first bullet, there is a limit to the amount of voltage that can be added.

Figure A below shows how oxygen sensors work. The graph is represents the voltage output of a typical oxygen sensor while the engine is running. Note, in a normal operating environment, the graph would be more jagged and would not be as regular as this one. The graph in this scenario makes it easier to visualize the concept of what the sensor is doing.

Narrow band oxygen sensors don’t tell the ECU what the air/fuel ratio is. They only tell if the mixture is rich or lean. The line that is marked “.45″ volts denotes the make/break point for the sensor’s voltage output. Any voltages that are higher than .45 volts is considered to be rich, and any voltages that are less than .45 volts is considered to be lean. When the sensor produces .45 volts, that is considered to be the correct air/fuel mixture which happens to be 14.7 to 1, air to fuel (by weight). The trouble with narrow band sensors is that they can’t tell the ECU how rich or how lean the mix is. They only tell the ECU “rich” or “lean”. Therefore, in normal operation, they are constantly changing voltages similarly to the graph in Figure A.

Figure A - Normal O2 Graph

Now look at Figure B. The blue line in this graph represents how an EFIE changes the voltage graph of the sensor. As the sensor produces its voltages (as represented by the red graph), the EFIE adds additional voltage. We are showing an EFIE set to 350 millivolts (.35 volts). Therefore the output of the EFIE that goes to the computer will be the voltages in the blue line on the graph. Because higher voltages mean a richer mix to the ECU, the ECU will then lean the mix when it “sees” these “richer” mixture signals coming from the oxygen sensor.

Normal EFIE Applied to a O2 Sensor

Almost all EFIE designs that are in use today work like the above graph, by adding a voltage to the output of the oxygen sensor. While this approach does work, and has been the only solution available for many years, it has 2 problems that make it not the ideal design.

1. There is a definite limit to the amount of voltage you can add. Notice that if we added .5 volts in the above graph, that the blue line would never dip below the .45 volt line. This is an illegal condition and the ECU will quickly stop using the oxygen sensor if it never sees the voltage transitioning from rich to lean. In actual fact many ECUs need to see voltages lower than .45 volts before it will consider that the mix is lean, and so often you can’t set an EFIE higher than 250 millivolts or so without throwing engine error codes.
2. It takes a relatively large change in the voltage to make a small change in the air/fuel ratio. This wouldn’t be a problem in itself, but coupled with the fact that we can only add a limited amount of voltage, this causes an end result of a small change in air/fuel ratio.

There is one other approach in EFIE design in use today, and that is to use an amplifier. Instead of adding voltage to the sensor’s output, EFIEs of this type will amplify the signal. This, in effect, multiplies the signal. This is a better approach in that the lower voltages are not increased as much as the higher voltages, and you should be able to shift the air/fuel ratio further than with a voltage “adder”. However, it is still limited to the amount it can shift the voltage before all voltages are higher than .45 volts. Also, the amplified voltages at the top of the graph can get quite high, possibly high enough that it will set off alarms in the ECU.

New, Innovative Digital EFIEs

Key Benefits of Digital EFIEs are the following:

• Only two High or Low voltages are sent to the ECU, not a range of voltages that may cause error codes.

There are other EFIE designs being marketed as “digital”. In each case, as of this writing, the only thing digital about them is the pot used to control the EFIE. It’s a digital pot and will have one of 64 or 128 resistance values, or possibly more depending on the resistor chip design. While this is cool, it makes no difference in the operation of the EFIE. It will still be operating like one of those described in the section above.

The new Digital Narrow Band EFIE operates completely differently from any other EFIE made. Our new EFIE is called digital, because it’s output is either on or off. Or in other words is either high or low. Or to put in terms the vehicle’s ECU will understand, the output will be either rich or lean. In terms of voltage, the output is either going to be .100 volts or .900 volts. This is perfectly acceptable to the ECU and tells it exactly what we want it to see. Since the output of the EFIE is only one of 2 states, we rightfully call this device a “digital” device.

So how do we know when to switch from the high state to the low state? We have a comparator in the EFIE that “decides” when to switch states. If the EFIE were to be set so that there was no change in air/fuel ratio, the comparator would be set to .45 volts. This would mean that if the voltage coming in from the sensor were below .45 volts, the output would be low, and likewise if the voltage coming in from the sensor were above .45 volts, the output would be set to high. This would cause a flat response in the ECU where it would provide the same air/fuel ratio as if the EFIE were not involved.

When an HHO generator is used the Air/Fuel ratio increases, meaning more air (o2) is seen in the exhaust. To lower the air/fuel ratio, we need to make the mix appear richer so the computer will stop sending wasted gas into the combustion chamber. In order to do this, we make the EFIE transition to a high output even though the input is below .45 volts. In other words, instead of using .45 volts as the switching threshold, we use .20 volts (see Figure C). By adjusting the pot on our new EFIE, we are adjusting at which voltage the comparator will use to determine if the output should be set to high or low. In the graph below, we show 2 comparator voltages for comparison. At .45 volts, we can see that the output will be high about 1/2 of the time. This is the same as it would be without the EFIE. Now notice the line at .2 volts. By setting the EFIE’s comparator at .2 volts, the EFIE output will be low for about 30% of the time and high about 70% of the time. This will make the air/fuel mix look richer than it is, and the ECU will respond by leaning out the mix (sending less gas to the combustion chamber). Which is exactly what is needed to realize maximum gains from an HHO generator.

Digital EFIE Applied to O2 Sensor

Note that .2 volts is probably too low for most vehicles. You will probably not need to set it this low. We only set it here to make it easy to see the principal involved with our new Digital EFIE. An actual setting would probably be closer to .300 - .325 volts.

Also Note: When downstream sensors need to be treated, do not use this device. Use an older style, voltage adding type of EFIE. The reason for this is that we’re not certain how the downstream sensor information is used by the ECU. In some cases, we have read the voltages from downstream sensors and they don’t jump up and down as shown in the graphs above. We’ve seen them just float around in the .2 to .3 volt range, not changing much. This is not the behavior that the Digital EFIE was designed for. It may work fine. But we prefer that the ECU just see the same behavior, but shifted up a bit, the way a voltage adding type of EFIE will do. Any of our Narrow Band EFIEs that aren’t labeled “Digital” will work for this application.

Using this device, some people have been able to lean the mix to the point that the engine will die. However, in some cases, it is still necessary to do other treatments to get the leaning results needed. For instance some ECUs use the downstream sensors as part of the air/fuel calcs. In this case, downstream EFIEs are needed to get the needed results. In other cases the MAF or MAP needs to be treated as well, in order for the ECU to buy into the adjustments that are being made with the EFIE. But these situations are common to all EFIEs, and have nothing to do with the type of EFIE used. But for adjusting the upstream oxygen sensors, we’ve never seen a device that is as powerful as this new Digital EFIE.
If you would like to purchase one of these Digital Narrow Band EFIEs, you can get them at our online store.

Note for Dodge/Chrysler: Some Dodge/Chrysler vehicles put 2.5 volts on the sensor’s “sig low” wire. This raises the signal high wire by 2.5 volts. Instead of seeing 0 to 1 volt you’ll see 2.5 to 3.5 volts on the signal wire. In these cases it is vital that you contact us and we will make you a custom version of our Digital EFIE that will work with this added voltage. This is for Digital models only, since they output a simulated signal, we need to adjust the output for this higher voltage range.

HHO gas should be the finest method to economize gas which is shortly accessible. 2 liters of water and 2 liters of gas must carry you about five hundred to seven hundred miles. Supply another 2 liters of each and you’re turned again. The water is barely common tap water, being cents, and two liters of gas is yet affordable. Think the savings.
The price of a HHO gas cell is about one hundred sixty dollar. A book of instructions may set you back another $70. A machinist may burden you $250 for fitting out it. That’s a noble sum of $480. If you’re a taxpayer, you then acquire your repayment from the Internal Revenue Service to the strain of two thousand dollars and you’re already ascending $1,520. That is prior to you’ve even began economizing bucks on running prices employing HHO fuel.
The taxation discounts for partially running your vehicle on HHO fuel increment to $5,000 for a minor lorry or bus. Anything exceeding twenty-six thousand pounds in total burden and employing HHO fuel acquires a banging $50,000. With common concerns about pure energy and inexhaustible energy, it’s acquitted that authorities are nowadays geared up to bid significant bonuses.
I should point out that currently HHO fuel schemes produce a hybrid automobile or lorry. This bio-car has an HHO gas kit added together but still applies a little fuel, albeit immensely contracted.

Each kit comes with all of the following: Bubbler, AMP Meter, Catalyst, 10 Gauge Wire, 20 Gauge Wire, Hose, Heat Shrink, Wire Lugs, Heavy Duty Switch, 60 AMP Continuous Duty Relay, Fuse and Fuse Holder, Wire Strippers, Heavy Duty Clamps, Extra Nuts and Washers, a Barb, large and small Zip Ties, an Installation DVD, a sticker, and our business card with our phone number so you may contact us with any questions you might have.

The complete kit for gasoline fuel injected vehicles also includes a dual EFIE deluxe. The complete kit for diesel and carburetter engines comes with double the amount of hose and wire (i.e. a big rig would need a lot more material than a small car). Each kit is available as an upgrade to all of our electrolyzers at a great price of $99.00. This is an average savings of over $100 for our customers.

We have tried to make the kit as complete as possible so you can open the box, walk out to your driveway, and install the unit without ever having to run to the store.

Also, we now include an installation DVD with the purchase of any of our systems. The installation DVD goes over every part of installing an on demand HHO system so you are sure to have a smooth, clean install. If you have any questions during the installation process you may call us any time and we will help trouble shoot any problems that you may be having.

Please check out our website, HHO Shop’s Complete HHO Kit, for more details.

Thank You!
Tom Punch

Almost all modern vehicles, employ oxygen sensors to tell the vehicle’s computer if the air/fuel mixture is too rich or too lean. The computer uses the information from the 02 sensor to determine if more or less fuel should be added to the mix in order to maintain the correct proportion. Gas vehicle engines (as opposed to diesel engines) are designed to operate at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1. When these proportions are being supplied to the engine, a certain amount of oxygen will be detected in the exhaust by the 02 sensor, and this information is fed into the vehicle’s computer.

If more oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too lean (not enough fuel), and adds fuel to the mix. Likewise, if less oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too rich (too much fuel) and cuts back on the fuel fed to the engine.

There’s a big problem with this scenario as soon as you start adding a workable fuel efficiency device. For any given air/fuel ratio, burned more efficiently, the oxygen content in the exhaust will rise. If you have two or more efficiency devices installed, even more oxygen will be present in the exhaust. The oxygen content rises as the fuel is burned more efficiently for a number of reasons. Chief amongst these are:

a) less fuel is being used to produce an equivalent amount of horsepower, and

b) less oxygen is being consumed to create carbon monoxide in the exhaust.

The bottom line is there is more oxygen in the exhaust as the fuel burning efficiency is increased. So, now that we have spent time and money to install a fuel efficiency device or two, and we are getting a more efficient fuel burn, what does the vehicle’s computer do? It dumps gas into the mix in an attempt to get an oxygen reading in the exhaust equal to it’s earlier, inefficient setup. This will then negate the fuel savings of just about any efficiency device, and in some cases will actually cause an increase in fuel consumption, despite having a workable fuel efficiency device.

The Solution

The handling for this situation is simple. The signal coming from the 02 sensor needs to be adjusted to compensate for the increased fuel efficiency being achieved. Basically the added oxygen in the exhaust fools the computer into thinking the mixture is too lean, causing it to (incorrectly) richen the mix. We need to un-fool the computer so it continues to give us the same amount of gas as before. We do this by making it think there is less oxygen in the exhaust than there actually is. The amount of change to the signal has to be easily adjustable to accommodate the different types of efficiency devices that are available. The oxygen sensor produces voltages to communicate the oxygen content to the computer. When the sensor reads below .45 volts, that means it’s lean, and when it reads above .45 volts, it’s saying the mix is rich. If you connect your volt meter to an oxygen sensor signal wire and ground, while the engine is running, you’ll see the voltage is constantly changing, and you’ll probably see voltages in the range of .3 to .7 volts or so. In actual fact, the voltage is changing back and forth from about .1 volt to about 1.0 volts, several times per second. But a hand held meter is not quick enough to show this. The EFIE adds it’s voltage to the sensor’s voltage, which shifts the voltage that the computer receives towards rich. This causes the computer to provide less gas. Many people think we’re trying to fool the computer with an EFIE. That’s actually not accurate. The extra oxygen in the exhaust because of a more complete combustion is what’s fooling the computer. It’s making the computer think the mix is too lean, and it’s compensating by adding gas that is not needed. The EFIE is un-fooling the computer. All we want to do is get it back to giving us a 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio again. It should be noted that an oxygen sensor handling device, by itself, is not a fuel efficiency device. It possibly could be used to control the vehicle’s computer, and make the engine burn a little leaner, and this could possibly give a small increase in gas mileage. But this is not what it was designed to do. It was designed to complement, and in some cases make possible, increased gas mileage using other fuel efficiency devices. If you need to purchase an EFIE for your project, you can find them information below. We specialize in accessories for fuel saving devices such as the EFIE and have a number of different models to suit different applications and budgets.

W­here to P­u­rchase

T­h­e­r­e­ ar­e­ kit­s/in­­st­r­uct­ion­­s avail­ab­l­e­ fr­om sit­e­s t­h­at­ wil­l­ t­e­l­l­ y­ou h­ow t­o make­ y­our­ own­­ E­FIE­, b­ut­ if y­ou don­­’t­ h­ave­ t­ime­ or­ t­h­e­ skil­l­ t­o make­ on­­e­ t­h­e­r­e­ ar­e­ st­or­e­s t­h­at­ se­l­l­ al­r­e­ady­ b­uil­d E­FIE­s. If y­ou h­ave­ pur­ch­ase­d an­­ H­H­O kit­ or­ ar­e­ con­­side­r­in­­g it­ for­ a fue­l­ in­­je­ct­e­d ve­h­icl­e­, go t­o EFIE D­ev­ic­es, to­­ ge­t a­n a­lr­e­a­dy­ a­s­s­e­mble­d E­FI­E­ de­vi­ce­.

The Electronic Fuel Injector Enhancer (EFIE) is not intended to be a fuel saver by itself. You should install a device that is designed to get more energy out of the same fuel, such as a hydrogen gas electrolyzer, a fuel vapor production unit, or other device that gets more power out of the same fuel by increasing the efficiency of the burn.

Locate the oxygen sensor signal wire

The easy way to do this is to look it up in your Haynes, Clymer or Chilton manual for your car. If you don’t have one of these, there is a service at www.ahdol.com where you can pay a nominal fee, and get your wiring diagrams emailed to you. I have also recently found a resource at www.autozone.com whereby you can get your wiring diagram, and specific service manual information on your sensors. However, the information is not available for all cars and trucks. Using the wiring diagram data, you can get the wire color of the signal wire, and hopefully gain access to it up in the engine compartment, where it routes to the computer.

If none of these options are available, you’ll need to locate the oxygen senor and then locate the signal wire by testing. The sensor can have 2, 3 or 4 wires, and you have to know which one is the signal wire. If you have 4 wires they will be:

• Heater 12 Volts +
• Heater ground
• Oxygen sensor signal +
• Oxygen sensor signal ground

If you have 2 or 3 wires, then you can have a common ground, or no heater wires etc. The simplest setup is a single wire, which is the signal wire and the sensor get’s it’s ground from the exhaust pipe. You can use the following procedure to narrow down which wire is which:

• Disconnect the wire harness, turn on the ignition and probe for a wire produces 12 volts. This will be the heater circuit.
• Next find the 2 wires that produce exactly 0 volts. These will be the heater ground and the signal ground. The remaining wire should be your signal wire.
• Reconnect the wiring harness, then strip a little insulation from the signal wire and measure it to ground with the engine running. You’ll get voltage readings constantly fluctuating between 0 and 1 volt, if you have the signal wire. Note, that you have to let the engine warm up a bit before you will get these voltages from the sensor.
• Cut this wire at a convenient location for connecting the EFIE. We’ll call the sensor side of this cut the sensor wire, and the other side of the cut, the computer wire.

Note: rarely an oxygen sensor wiring harness will have more than 4 wires. In this case, the sensor is possibly a “wide band” oxygen sensor. The EFIE has been reported to work with 5-wire wide band sensors.

Once you have determined which is the sensor’s signal wire, you want to get it located up close to the computer. If you used a manual, or wiring diagram, you probably have already located the wire at the computer’s wiring harness. If you had to figure out the wires at the sensor itself, then try to find the same wire at the computer’s wiring harness. It should be the same colors, but test it with an ohm meter to be sure. Sometimes they use the same colors for different things. Even if it’s a pain now, it’s worth it to get the signal wire located up by the computer. This makes cutting into it and hooking up the EFIE much easier.

Locate 12 volt power and ground

You need to ensure that you have switched power, not power directly from the battery. You don’t want the EFIE running 100% of the time. It’s not that the unit couldn’t run 100% of the time, it probably could. But it would slowly drain your battery.

Most of the fuel efficiency devices need switched power as well, and you can often piggy back onto them. Note that the EFIE draws negligible power. You can attach it to any circuit. The best choice for a voltage source is a fuel efficiency device, such as a Hydrogen generator. That way the EFIE only activates when the fuel efficiency device is turned on. Note that when power is shut off to the EFIE, or the EFIE’s switch is turned off, the original connection between the oxygen sensor and the computer is re-established. If connecting to your fuel saver’s power is inconvenient or inappropriate, just use any circuit that is accessory key switched. Your electrical diagram can come in handy here, and if you don’t find another device to attach to, you can usually find a spare circuit in the fuse box (you may have to add a fuse). One installer used the oxygen sensor’s heater power for his EFIE’s power, and this is perfectly acceptable.

Ground can be the vehicle body, engine block or ground from another device, including the ground for the oxygen sensor itself. Just make sure that whatever you choose to use for ground has a negligible resistance (less than 10 ohms) when tested against the negative battery terminal of your car.

Mount the EFIE

You can use the mounting ears to screw down the EFIE to a suitable location on the vehicle body or firewall. Some people like to mount the device inside the passenger compartment of the car.The EFIE is not waterproof. If you mount it under the hood, you will have to take care to cover it if you need to steam or spray clean your engine. If this is something you regularly do, you may want to mount the EFIE in the passenger compartment where it will be protected.

W­here to P­u­rchase

T­h­e­r­e­ ar­e­ kit­s/in­­st­r­uct­ion­­s avail­ab­l­e­ fr­om sit­e­s t­h­at­ wil­l­ t­e­l­l­ y­ou h­ow t­o make­ y­our­ own­­ E­FIE­, b­ut­ if y­ou don­­’t­ h­ave­ t­ime­ or­ t­h­e­ skil­l­ t­o make­ on­­e­ t­h­e­r­e­ ar­e­ st­or­e­s t­h­at­ se­l­l­ al­r­e­ady­ b­uil­d E­FIE­s. If y­ou h­ave­ pur­ch­ase­d an­­ H­H­O kit­ or­ ar­e­ con­­side­r­in­­g it­ for­ a fue­l­ in­­je­ct­e­d ve­h­icl­e­, go t­o EFIE D­ev­ic­es, to­­ ge­t a­n a­lr­e­a­dy­ a­s­s­e­mble­d E­FI­E­ de­vi­ce­.

The first thing to know is that the device that you built for your car is not meant to produce enough hydrogen to run your car only on hydrogen. To run 100% hydrogen means you have to build a device which is much more difficult to put together and probably more dangerous because at least at the DIY level the technology isn’t there yet.

The unit that you’re going to build works this way. Quite simply, you will be generating HHO gas from water by sending a charge from your battery into the fuel cell which separates the water molecules in the fuel cell into hydrogen and oxygen. This then generates a gas known as HHO or Brown’s gas.

HHO is not only safe and clean but when combined with gasoline in the carburetor will markedly increase your mileage. Of course it depends on how you drive the car and the type of car you own but a 75% increase in gas mileage is not unheard of. You can save thousands and, according to many testimonials from people who have used the system it is not a scam.

All you need is a good guide to build your own DIY hydrogen fuel cell and you will find any number of those online. These will provide you with a step-by-step instruction on how to build a hydrogen cell and install it in your car and, remember we are not talking rocket science here. The method really is very simple and only a very basic knowledge of mechanics is required. Barring that, you could always take it to your mechanic.

The trick is as with anything else, get the best information that you can and make sure that you can get at least some support. Current evidence suggests that Installing a DIY hydrogen fuel cell will not damage your vehicle but it is always good to have access to somebody who knows.

In regards to that, I have checked out quite a few different products out there and the most complete one I’ve found is www.water4gas.com . You might find it worth your while to have a look.

HHO Cost Savings Spread Sheet Calculator (xls)

Many people have seen about a 20% fuel economy gain utilizing the HHO electrolysis generators to boost the amount of combustible gas in the engine; creating a cleaner more more efficient environment for combustion. As an example if you get 20 mpg, a 20% fuel economy increase will save you $250 after driving 7500 miles @ $4 a gallon for gas.